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Food · The shell question · Take No. 035

Hard or soft taco?

A crunchy shell that shatters on the first bite, or a soft tortilla that holds everything together. One was invented in Mexico, the other in a California drive-through. Both have armies.

The case for each side, then the verdict. Then the floor is yours.
The case for

The soft taco

Corn or flour, warmed, folded

  • 100%Of the filling stays in the taco, which is the taco's only job.
  • MexicoEvery taco in Mexico is soft. The hard shell is an American invention, which is fine, but it's not the original.
  • CornA fresh corn tortilla has flavour. A fried shell has crunch and nothing else.
vs
The case for

The hard-shell taco

Fried, U-shaped, crunchy

  • 1Bite, and the shell shatters, and the whole thing lands in your lap. That's half the fun.
  • TextureCrunch against soft meat and cheese is a real pleasure the soft side pretends not to feel.
  • 1950sPatented in California and sold to a generation. Taco night in America means this one.

Cast your take

——
The verdict

It's Soft. The hard shell is a snack; the soft taco is a food.

Hard shells have nostalgia and crunch, and a Tuesday-night kit taco is a legitimate joy. Nobody is taking that away from you.

But a taco has to hold its filling, taste of its tortilla and survive to the second bite, and only one of these does. Everything from a street taquería to the best restaurant in Mexico City agrees. Soft.

Disagree? That's what the buttons are for.

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